Memorable Places to Eat

In Southern California

Amigo's
In February 2004, Popular Science described Amigo's as a "Top Nerd Bar." However I don't think you could tell that from the appearance of this Mexican cantina. The best things about Amigo's are the large, usually strong margaritas, and the chips. The chimichangas are good too. 1076 East Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena. (626)577-1307.
Bravo Cucina
Most of Bravo Cucina's menu is Italian, as one might expect, but more interesting is its claim to offer "the Ultimate Burger". Fifteen dollars is a pretty ridiculous sum to pay for a burger, but if you can get past that sticker shock, the Bravo Blu, hamburger with blue cheese and Belgian frittes, is really pretty good. I'm not sure what distinguishes Belgian frittes from other kinds of frittes. 1319 3rd Street, Santa Monica. (310)394-0374.
Cafe des Artistes
I was not that impressed with the Le Petit oysters and shrimp, but my grilled whole Mediterranean sea bass was good and the Provencal salsa was great. The frittes that came with Maribeth's filet mignon were so exquisite that they bore a strong resemblance to McDonald's french fries. I feel this represents the Warholian triumph of mass consumer culture. Raymond Estate Chardonnay. Chocolate mousse and creme catalane, both good. 1534 N. McCadden Pl., Hollywood. (323)469-7300.
Central Park
I have tried a lot of breakfast burritos, and I think that Central Park has the best breakfast burrito I have had anywhere. Since I normally have a free hand with tabasco sauce, it's telling that I have no inclination to add sauce and alter the balance of flavors of the Central Park burrito, even though it is not particularly spicy. Central Park is pretty good for dinner also. 219 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena. (626) 449-4499.
El Coyote
I had the carnitas, and for possibly the first time in history at a Mexican restaurant the number of flour tortillas initially provided (4) was adequate for the meal. Peach margarita. Maribeth took home a slice of her shredded chicken quesadilla and it was good the next day as well. Yes, this is where Sharon Tate and friends ate their last meal before being murdered by the followers of Charles Manson. 7312 Beverly Boulevard, Los Angeles. (323)939-2255.
Ernie's Al Fresco
Informally known as "the taco truck," this is the best place to get lunch on a weekday on the Caltech campus, although I would then take my plate down to Chandler to get some real silverware and maybe some Tabasco sauce. Get the Mucho Macho burrito, or on Fridays, potato tacos. The flautas are also pretty good if they have them. Located: near the Caltech physical plant loading dock, around lunchtime on weekdays.
Fosselman's Ice Cream
A perennial candidate for the best ice cream in Los Angeles, and unlike some other ice cream stores, it's actually open when you want it to be. I should buy all my ice cream from here. On the last visit I was particularly impressed by the burgundy cherry. 1824 West Main Street, Alhambra. (626)282-6533.
Kansai of Pasadena
Chikara udon and tonkatsu don. 36 S. Fair Oaks, Pasadena.
Mr. Cecil's California Ribs
I had the St. Louis style ribs, and they were good. Maribeth claimed they couldn't possibly be better than the baby back ribs she had. French fries with blue cheese were also interesting, but the plan for next time is to skip those and make do with sides of beans and hush puppies. 12244 Pico Blvd, Los Angeles. (310)442-1550.
Ninjin
It took me a long time, years, to find a sushi restaurant on the Westside that was both good and good value for money, but Ninjin, resurrected phoenix-like after a fire, is it. I almost can't believe how good it is. It is my lunch place now no question. I usually have the Sushi Combination A, sore kara, saba o onegai-shimasu. 607 Colorado Avenue, Santa Monica. (310)451-9800.
Ragin Cajun Cafe
Alligator, boudin sausage, crawfish etouffee, jambalaya, red beans and rice, and a Red Stripe. I have been going to this place since it was half of its current size. I used to swear by the crawfish etouffee, but now I am starting to think that the jambalaya is really where it's at. And of course the dozen different varieties of hot sauce at every table. 422 Pier Avenue, Hermosa Beach. (949)566-9099.
Roll Inn
Eight-inch Italian sausage sandwich with french fries and horchata. Interesting cucumbers on the sandwiches. This sandwich stand is the best place I've found for a quick meal on the UCLA campus. Excellent value for money. 927 Gayley Avenue, Los Angeles.
Suriya
Yellow curry with chicken, steamed rice, Suriya noodles with beef, Singha beer. The food comes to the table so fast it is amazing and a little scary. So much for the good-food-takes-time-to-prepare theory. Suriya is the best and greatest Thai restaurant in Pasadena, it beats the bejesus out of the overrated President Thai. 125 W. California Blvd., Pasadena. (626)584-0066.
Tommy's World Famous Hamburgers
A chili cheese dog, a double hamburger with chili, regular fries. Or skip the hamburger. Or get chili fries. The thing about Tommy's is you have to like chili on your food. Of course they will leave it off if you ask but then what you have left is not particularly memorable. Better to drench everything in the tasty chili. It took me some time to master the art of eating the chili dog without making a mess. Although there is one close to RAND (1900 Lincoln Boulevard, Santa Monica) and now there is one very close to Caltech (170 N. Hill Street, Pasadena) and there are others, the one I first got to know was the Eagle Rock location, which used to be the closest one to Caltech and was a Caltech tradition. The Eagle Rock location always used to amaze me with their swiftness, more than the other locations I have been to. I have a hunch that maybe the original McDonald's was that fast at delivering a hamburger and fries. Quick quick quick. 1717 Colorado Boulevard, Eagle Rock.

Elsewhere

Bette's Ocean View Diner
While waiting 25 minutes for a table at Bette's, had English Breakfast tea from the Peet's Coffee and Tea down the street. Then Bette's "California Breakfast" of poached eggs and ham on sourdough toast, with potatoes and a large glass of grapefruit juice. 1807a Fourth Street, Berkeley. (510)644-3230.
Fifth Street Ribs n Blues
Good Southern barbecue place located near Georgia Tech. A "half rack" of ribs seemed the size of a full order at most places. I had sides of beans and pickles. 86 5th Street NW, Atlanta. (404)249-8808.
Five Guys Famous Burgers and Fries
Good hamburgers with bacon and mushrooms, hot dogs split in the bun, and french fries with malt vinegar. So far this is the only place I've eaten in Pittsburgh that demands a return visit. 117 S. Bouquet St., Pittsburgh. (412)802-7100.
Portillo's Hot Dogs
The Italian beef with hot peppers was good and so was the jumbo hot dog. The sausage in the jumbo hot dog was better quality than I'm used to from California hot dog stands such as Pink's or Tommy's. The poppyseed bun was a little overwhelmed by the sausage and toppings. Crinkle-cut fries were nothing special and skippable. Maribeth had the Maxwell Street Polish, that seemed pretty good too. 1500 Butterfield Road, Downers Grove, Illinois. (630)495-9033.
Uno Chicago Grill
It is very unfortunate that there are no Unos in the Los Angeles area. I have their deep dish pizza whenever I get the chance. In particular, I have fond memories of the Harvard Square Uno, a landmark of my college days which survives while other eateries I frequented, such as Elsie's, have been demolished. I made a pilgrimage to the original Pizzeria Uno (and Pizzeria Due) in Chicago, but it was not as good! The chain restaurants are better! Harvard Square, 22 JFK Street, Cambridge, Massachusetts. (617)497-1530.

Gone But Not Forgotten

Schatzi on Main
Prime rib with baked potato, green beans, horseradish and sour cream, and Austrian draft beer. Plus they usually bring out some kind of little German appetizer first and a cup of "Austrian-style" ice cream afterwards. I've yet to go for Cigar Night or see the Governor of California who owns the place. 3110 Main Street, Santa Monica. (310)399-4800. [Now gone, after an ill-advised increase in menu prices.]
Soda Jerks
Maribeth and I went here on our first date. This self-consciously period place actually opened a year or two after I came to California, but it is painstakingly intended to be evocative of a 1930s-1940s lunch counter. They serve things like phosphates, rickeys, and egg creams. Lime rickeys aren't really that good, but the flavored cola is good. Have an Ernie Banks hot dog with french fries, followed by the Tiffany sundae (chocolate ice cream with raspberry sauce and white chocolate ice cream with hot fudge). Formerly 219 S. Fair Oaks, Pasadena. (626)583-8031. [They are currently closed and looking for a new location.]
Sol y Azul
Corona fish tacos and a margarita. They used to have both red and green salsas with the chips but now they appear to have downsized to the more distinctive green, which is okay with me. Update: Now they have switched to corn tortillas for the tacos. Stop messing with the Corona fish tacos! 20 E. Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena. (626)796-0919. [Now closed. I guess they messed with the Corona fish tacos once too many times.]

Richard Mason